Once, twice, three times ‘The Dassler’!
The Dassler: Number 3. Read on for enough 3 stripe goodness to satisfy the most obsessive adidas fanatic.
Drei ist die magische Zahl! Willkommen to the third (obvs striped) edition of The Dassler the bi-monthly magazine especially written for (& by) adidas lovers.
If this is your first visit then we’d highly recommend you run over to the very beginning (obvs wearing a pair of A-ZX collection runners )to our first edition here and our equally as-good-if-not-better second edition here.
This is the third in a twice monthly newsletter, that will contain ultra rare deadstock trainers shared by legendary adidas collector Bobby Mac, new adidas releases & brand exclusive information from 3 stripe social media giant Craig (@adifamily_ ), adidas oddments & apparel reminiscences written by Woody (@dadidassler) plus loads of articles from special guest writers and we have some absolute adidas legends as guest writers lined up!
Why The Dassler? Obviously this newsletter is written for 3 stripe lovers (like ourselves!) and will contain as much adidas goodness as we can stuff in. The name of our newsletter is a homage to adidas founder Adolf (Adi) Dassler and an obvious reference to his dazzling adidas trainers (sneakers for our stateside readers).
Only the next two issues will be free to read and we are hoping that you will see how much effort we put into this newsletter to consider subscribing for the full edition, for way less than a cup of coffee per month or even cheaper if you subscribe for the year. After this only small extracts will be available for free, with the full newsletter only being available to paid subscribers.
If you take out a paid subscription between now and the end of May then you will receive ‘The adidas annual’ a specially designed hard back book cataloguing a curated version of this years adidas trainer/sneaker releases at a highly reduced rate-but more on that very soon.
Bobby Mac…talks about his love for the Formel 1.
Looking back at the late 60’s and early 70’s adidas were leading the way with their laufenschuh models like the 1968 prototype Achill, a shoe designed to aid the natural flexing action of the foot for firm, pressure free support, the new fast Ghilly lacing system and a built in heel counter construction for better stability, so by the time the jogging boom had landed adidas were ahead of the curve.
In the 1970’s tens of millions of Americans took to running both competitively and as a hobby to improve their fitness, running clubs were established and many people became long and short distance runners, this soon spread to other counties around the world including the U.K.
The giants of the sports shoe industry were quick to make an array of shoes designed for this new craze and the competition became fierce, shoes such as Puma Easy Rider, Brooks 430 Delta, New Balance 320, Nike LD1000V, Etonic Street Fighter, Converse World Class and Asics Tiger Montreal were just a few of the decent yet somewhat similar models that were available in the sports shops at that time but once you’d walked past the air rifles, cricket balls and dart boards, on the upper shelving of the shoe walls, you’d find the many variations of running shoes that adidas had to offer.
By the middle of the 1970’s they were leading the way when it came to shoes designed for long distance road-running and jogging but Adi Dassler, not one to rest on his laurels, along with his team set out to create prototypes that would keep adidas ahead of the pack. In 1976 the classic TRX was created, a relatively simple looking shoe but look a little closer and you’ll notice the suction cup outsole which was designed to provide the wearer with better grip, stability and support and the grooves each side of the heel wedge, which were designed to absorb impact. Plus that timeless blue and yellow contrasting colourway, as nice as they were, they were still in the same league as adidas’ competitors shoes and Adi knew that to not only stay in the race but to lead the way his team and him would have to go further..
In the same year adidas produced a series of prototypes in similar colours to TRX, high visibility oranges and yellows over royal blue and black, one of these models even had a two inch piece of garden hose pipe attached to the heel!
adidas wanted to create a running shoe that provided the perfect level of cushioning, protection, support and to also keep mud from splashing up the wearers calfs, the shoe had to look fast and even sound fast, by using the 1970s Formula 1 cars as inspiration the design team produced the 1977 Formel 1.
This beautiful looking runner had it all, a tyre tread like outsole which was extended at the heel, not only keeping the wearers legs cleaner but also to reduce the shock of impact, Ghilly lacing, a comfortable dimpled tongue and a bold hi-vis yellow on black colourway.
It was 1979 and a six year old me was staying at my cousins house one Friday night and we were sat watching tv, my uncle had returned from working overseas, he came downstairs and sat on the bottom stair. He told us he was going for a run, my eyes transfixed on the black and yellow trainers he was putting on, up until that point I’d only ever seen pretty bland trainers while playing out as kids but these were a breathe of fresh air.. This image stayed with me as I grew up, I often thought about them, all I knew was that they were adidas and that he’d brought them back from some foreign land. Fast forward to winter 2001, possibly into 2002 and I was living on the South Coast just outside Southampton, it was a Saturday afternoon and I was walking through the new Westquay shopping centre, as I walked past a shop window I saw them! There they were.. at last! I stood there for a few seconds looking at them knowing that I’d now own them, wear them and find out the model name, this was a 20+ year itch about to be scratched, this was the start of me “collecting”. Although that word didn’t enter my mind for many years after I bought a few pairs, then a few more in the blue & orange colourway, then a few in the black & red colourway then as other models were released, I’d buy more than one pair of each to keep some box fresh for as long as I could, Stan Smith, Montreal, Samoa and Indoor Super including the excellent Oki Ni collaborations in the years thereafter.
In 2005 adidas Originals produced a vibrant shoe called the P.T. Running 1976, I didn’t know this at the time but this was a shoe inspired by the various prototypes produced in 1976, that led to the 1977 Formel 1.
A beautiful looking runner with hi-vis orange and yellow over royal blue, it wasn’t until I researched them and asked a few people that I found out the shoe’s story, during this research I found out that Formel 1 had been reissued in the 90s, this release had completely passed me by but for me, the 90s were all Gazelle, Stan Smith and Rockport!
As I started to collect new releases I also began to look for older stuff too, I’d visit friends in Windsor, Cambridge and parts of Hampshire and always try to get to the second hand shops, vintage shops and car boot sales before leaving, always looking for adidas stuff but often coming away with a badminton racket, an action man or a handful of house mix tapes.. now and then I’d find some old trainers and that was me, hooked..
It soon started to accumulate and in the years after I was finding some nice stuff eventually landing a pair of 1977 West German Formel 1, just like my uncles pair back in 79.
In 2015 adidas Originals tapped into the massive archive at their H.Q in Herzogenaurach, where they’d found one of the original 1976 Formel 1 prototypes called “Racing 1 Prototype”. I naturally bought a few pair the day they were released and it was a nice surprise when they arrived in a white archive type box complete with an info card and clear plastic slip stuck to the front of the box just like the many white boxes that grace the shelves of the archive, they even came with a box card containing a picture of the original shoe and some words.. a nice touch.
They are a stunning looking runner and a true 1:1 reissue of the original model but how close are they? How far did Originals go to to get them this close?
In 2016 I was invited to the adidas headquarters, when I entered the archive I was asked what shoes I’d like to see, the original Racing 1 prototype were at the top of my list, as I held the shoe with my white adidas gloves I could see how much time had been put into getting the shoe so right. The shape and the colours were spot on but what was really impressive was the materials they had used, they were exactly the same as my pair back home. Then it was explained to me about the lengths the team had gone to to source the vibrant blue corduroy lining, they wanted to get everything right, even inside. So, a prototype, a shoe that led to a released model was itself, being released.. had it not, it would have been sat on a shelf in a white box for ever more..
adidas Formel 1 designed in West Germany during the height of the running and jogging boom, in my opinion one of the most important sports shoes ever produced and definitely one of my favourites-an outstanding runner.
The third adidas Spezial apparel capsule AW15-a revisit.
As last edition’s rundown of the first spezial apparel drop (here) and the second (here) went down so well I’d though I’d carry on with a review of the third Spezial apparel capsule A/W 15 (Autumn/Winter) launched on 8th September 2015 at a warehouse space in Shoreditch, London.
*Firstly an amendment from my last Dassler article on the SS15 apparel drop and referencing the unnamed Spzl Smock sample that I said had not been seen since…
Ummm…To be fair I did say that the particular colourway had not been released but it does bear a striking resemblance to the Aigburth Smock from the AW18 Spzl capsule. In case you are wondering a sample of that green smock was recently sold on an auction site for a princely sum-can’t have been a co-incidence that it went on sale just after my write up in the last Dassler!
Anyway back to AW15! Gary Aspden used singer-songwriter and film score composer Bill Ryder-Jones from the Liverpool band ‘The Coral’, as a model for the Spezial A/W '15 collection and he commissioned him to create the soundtrack for the short film that launched the capsule.
The capsule was dubbed ‘Alpine Luxe’ and featured twelve pieces of apparel (plus the two bonus pieces from the ‘Carlos’ drop). The Spezial team took inspiration from two locations where adidas had a big cultural impact during the 70s – Liverpool and Innsbruck.
Bobby Mac explained the reasons why Liverpool was at the heart of the football casual movement during the 70s (and beyond) in the first ‘Dassler’. While Innsbruck in Austria played host to the 1976 Winter Olympics, where a vast majority of the athletes donned the trefoil. Vintage adidas ski wear was also an inspiration for the collection, as was the obligatory ‘Freizeit’ influences.
Bill Ryder-Jones modelled apparel at both locations for the photo shoots and the promotional film.
I was pretty much told not to worry about the music and that the trip to the Alps would write it for me. I kinda laughed it off at the time but it really became pretty obvious what was needed as soon as I saw the place. I generally don’t like heights so a highlight was me losing my rag at the top of some mountain and calling our lovely director, Nick, an utter sh**house!
Bill Ryder-Jones
ST10 Jacket
An ST2 is a padded rain jacket from the early Eighties that inspired the ST10. I usually start with that archive piece and then ask myself, "how that can be improved for modern life?" PrimaLoft padding, ClimaStorm fabric, an improved hood and pockets all contribute to updating the ST2. The aesthetic of that jacket is classic - I believe it still has relevance and doesn't need to rely solely on nostalgia.
Gary Aspden
Snowflake Sweat
The Snowflake graphic that featured on the AW2015 embossed Sweat, Tee and the Hoody, was designed by Gary Watson and featured in the first Spzl drop of 2014 on the Patch Hoody. Reflecting the alpine theme of the collection the graphic also featured in traditional Scandinavian/ Icelandic knitwear and was the key influence on the Norvegian hoody.
Snowflake tee
Novegian Hoody
The iconic 1980’s ‘New Yorker’ hoody is without doubt one of adidas' most recognisable pieces of clothing. The design of the white band carrying the adidas branding around the chest and the left sleeve was referenced and inspired the design of the Norvegian hoody which has an embroidered strip running around it.
ETA Anorak
As seen in the Hasslington Jacket of SS15 the use of Manchester invented EtaProof fabric, also made a reappearance via the ‘ETA Anorak’, staying true to the alpine luxe roots aesthetic in its classic, beige and light brown parka form. A wind and water resistant EtaProof cotton fabric was originally made for the immersion suits used by airline pilots.
Middleton Tracksuit
The inspiration for the Middleton Tracksuit (named after a town just outside of Greater Manchester) came from a nameless tracksuit purchased from Carlos Ruiz's sports shop in Buenos Aires in 2014. The whole tracksuit was packaged together in its own box which the adidas Spezial team wanted to replicate, however, due to EU regulations this was not possible as the top and bottoms have to be sold as separates.
Following on from the success of the Frezeit inspired Beckenbauer tracksuits in the earlier Spezial capsules, Gary Aspden talked with Saville Row tailor ‘Kilgour's’ Carlo Brandelli which influenced a more tailored approach to a tracksuit that adopts the lining traditionally used in formal suits.
I was looking at images of the Adidas presentation suits that were worn by the German National football teams in the 1960s and 1970s and could see a sophistication and smartness in them. I wanted to reflect that in the Spezial range in a way that felt modern. It needed to have the comfort of sportswear, but with a more tailored look. It would be a more appropriate choice for a long distance flight than for the gym.
Gary Aspden GQ magazine interview 2015
Settend II Tracksuit
Very much moving in the direction of the velour Freizeit leisure suits of the 80’s, the Settend II needle cord tracksuit is as much at home on the flight to Benidorm as it is chilling in the VIP area of a nightclub.
What’s the Super Furry Animals got to do with adidas Spezial? In 2000 , lead singer Gruff suggested making the band look like a psychedelic 5-a-side football team-Gary Aspden gave them some Silver adidas tracksuits. Years later, Gruff got in touch again and resulted in them again being kitted out in adidas Spezial Beckenbauer suits from the SS15 capsule, which subsequently made an appearance in several of the band's photo-shoots.
In the winter of 2015 the Super Furry Animals were given the honour of playing before the crucial Wales v Andorra game in 2015 at the Cardiff City Stadium. Fortunately, the timing of the game coincided with the launch of AW15’s Settend Il tracksuit which each of the band wore on stage.
West German Blouson
Inspired by a 1970’s Freizeit blouson jacket, produced in West Germany, with a similar hooded version sharing the same pocket set up. The construction of the overall fit of the jacket was re-evaluated and modernised, with changes to the rounded collar and the addition of storm cuffs. The fabric and branding were also redressed to give it a up-to-date finish. This jacket also evolved into the 'Mellor' jacket of SS16.
LS Polo Shirt
This is basically a ‘winter’ long sleeved version of the Trefoil Polo that was released in the SS15 Spezial capsule.
SPZL Graphic Tee
The SPZL graphic tee was a Gary Watson-inspired reference to the fact that *every piece of adidas Spezial footwear is followed by the letters 'SPZL’ and is indeed the first piece of apparel featuring this graphic. If you wondering it features a stylised version of the ‘Bauhaus’ font-see Craig’s New Releases piece about a reference to that!
*The exception to this rule is the Ardwick trainer released in 2014 , due to it being from outside of a seasonal range, the SPZL tag was somehow omitted from both its box and labelling. It most definitely is a Spezial shoe though and features on the promotional pictures of the first capsule.
New York Spzl Graphic Tees
Finally in December 2015 there was a release of two Spzl tees and two trainer drops celebrating the visit to Carlos’ adidas shop in Buenos Aries, Argentina. This consisted of two tees in the sky blue colours of the Argentina sports teams. One with the ‘Winter’ Spezial logo embossed on a grey marl material, the second designed by Gary Watson and heavily inspired by the ‘money’ tee that Ian brown wore in the Stones Roses ‘Fools Gold’ video.
My best Spezial design? I'd probably pick the 'Sole Searching tee' that lan Brown wore on the second visit to Carlos' shop in Argentina and was part of the AW15 drop. So many things work on that one for me, the use of the insole graphic around the neck and bottom, the fact that the zigzag three stripes look like they are pre-1950, the obvious reference of lan wearing it and the nod to the original Money tee. It was all Gary's idea, that one, I just made it happen on a visual level.
Gary Watson Spezial graphic designer
My adidas ‘Top Ten’-Diggerdas.
Firstly, it is a privilege to for me to be invited to contribute to what I believe will become a significant publication in the adidas world. The people involved truly share my passion for adidas.
So, a little bit about me, my name is Digger, it has been my nickname since I was around 2 years old. It is not because I dig for trainers or graves, much more boring than that. Diggerdas was generated for social media as “digger” was taken, nothing more to it than that.
Although never a conscious decision, when I think about it, I have collected adidas since the mid 1990’s.. The “brown box” era was significant for me, it coincided with full time employment and the freedom to purchase multiple pairs of trainers for the first time. Like many adidas fans, I grew up in a working class northern home and one pair of adidas at a time was a privilege.
By the millennium I had around 30 pairs. Then the internet changed the world for everyone and for my collection, the rest is history. What sets me aside from most other collectors is that, I like all Adidas from the 40’s to the current day. I recently bought a pair of the latest Adizero prime X which are an amazing, genius design. This may surprise people when they see my collection. I really do love all types of adidas footwear.
When I think of my top 10, I never think of a specific shoe I own, I think about the adidas range as a whole, how broad it is, and not only what the shoe means to me, but to the brands history. Which models could I never live without? What shoes have I worn the most over all these years as an adidas fan?
So in no particular order (that was too hard) here is my top 10 Adidas shoes-
Can totally relate to Diigerdas regarding coming from a northern working class background. As a kid growing up in the mid 80's i longed for adidas trainers, but often ended up with tesco two stripes. then when i was finally earning a decent wage in the late 90's i had young kids so it only allowed one pair that would get worn until they were binned. It was only in the last 10-15 years that i've been able to indulge my love of the three stripes and collect a few pairs.
Agree with Craig that adidas skate shoes are often overlooked, the durability of some of the vulc campus, and the Puig's are immense. Also the Blondey collabs are superb.
Another excellent read and yes the internet in its infancy changed the game as it was unmanaged and you were pretty much free to roam and search without getting pushed in a single direction. I was importing SL76 from Argentina in colourways we would never see the like of at a reasonable £42 a pair delivered. The strong strong pound Vs dollar also helped sniffing out bargains state side. I just think the world got smaller and everyone caught up and lots of the outlets online dissapeared which was a shame. EBay was also a good source and I was an avid collector of ZX in the 2000’s when /// couldn’t give them away in particular the 8000. A far cry from now as it appears to be a staple design in the release Calander every season. The biggest issue now is others are upping their game - Puma are obviously taking a leaf out of the /// and dipping into their archive and smashing great shoes out. NB continue to trade well and have captured the gorpcore market and Diadora and saucony just keep upping their game. Too many shoes 😂👍🏼