The Dassler: Number 31- September 2024. Read on for enough three stripe goodness to satisfy the most obsessive adidas fanatic.
Welcome to The Dassler, Thirty-first edition.
Welcome to our ninth edition of The Dassler in 2024-number 30, the monthly magazine especially written for (and by) adidas lovers.
Thank you for continuing to subscribe to our little corner of adidas heaven.
This publication loves sharing three stripe nuggets of information, that add to the mystique of the adidas legacy. Soooo…
Where did the Green colour from the adidas Equipment range originate from?
To emphasize the idea of essential, I felt we should take away all the color. At that time, designers loved to play with color and to decorate shoes with it, but to me, it was bullshit, lipstick on a pig. I didn’t want “I don’t like the color“ to even be a decision. I wanted to take as much subjectivity out of it as possible.
We cut it down to black, white, gray, and a special color we called "Equipment green." It was a shade I’d found in a Pantone industrial paint book. It was deliberately a pain in the ass to match, because the idea was that it would be like Coca-Cola’s secret formula—a color no one could replicate.
Peter Moore-Sneaker Legend by Jason Coles 2024
Of course it was the genius Peter Moore!
The Dassler comes out on the Third Saturday of each Month-to take your mind off spending all your money on adidas and give you something to do while waiting for the end of the months pay day!
In this edition the ‘Retro shoe of the month’ we talk about the adidas Rivalry (or Ewing). Woody reviews Jason Coles new book Peter Moore-Sneaker Legend and Craig shares another of his adidas adventures. We share a posthumous tribute to Graham ‘Kerso’ Kerr as we publish his not-to-be-missed adidas Top Ten and Craig again reviews the latest adidas drops of note, with more Dassler world exclusives!
A massive three-striped thank you for subscribing, it takes a lot of hours to research, write, source and edit The Dassler and your support is very much appreciated.
If this is your first visit then we’d highly recommend you run over to the very beginning (obvs wearing a pair of OG colourway adidas ZX600’s)to our earlier issues here.
This is a monthly newsletter, that will contain ultra rare deadstock trainers, new adidas releases & brand exclusive information from 3 stripe social media giant Craig (@adifamily_ *X & Insta*), adidas oddments & apparel reminiscences written by Woody (@dadidassler *X* & Insta) plus loads of articles from special guest writers and we have some absolute adidas legends as guest writers lined up!
The Story behind the stripes.
adidas Rivalry aka The Ewing.
Shortly after the release of the adidas Forum in 1984, adidas introduced the Rivalry silhouette. In collaboration with basketball player Patrick Ewing, adidas came up with the 'Ewing' collection. Ewing played for the New York Knicks at the time, one of the greatest NBA franchises of all time and is one of the '50 Greatest Players in NBA History'. In 1986, Ewing was named 'NBA Rookie of the Year', which was celebrated with his own collection at adidas.
The collection came with three trainers: the adidas Conductor, adidas Rivalry High, and Low-top, all designed by the genius Jacques Chassaing.
The adidas Conductor was a beloved model by Ewing himself (in fact most of the promos shot with Ewing he was only wearing the Conductor) and was the more expensive, technical shoe. The Rivalry High silhouette initially looked very similar to the Conductor model but was more affordable for basketball fans. Then in 1991 when Next Sports signed a licensing deal to release footwear for him under his name, the silhouettes nom de plume had to be changed. But the adidas Conductor, Metro Attitude (a third Silhouette was added to the collection in 1989), as well as the newly named Rivalry (a nod to the Knicks and Bulls rivalry on court) continued to be sold-despite the loss of Ewing’s name.
The 1986 Ewing/Rivalry silhouette was released in a High and Low version, unusually made in France (until the 1987 Ewing Rivalry 2 came out which was made in Taiwan). They became a hit on the streets because of the low price point (compared to it’s big brother Conductor) and also for the Rivalry’s relative ease in slipping in and out of wearers feet (especially the low-top version). The Rivalry featured reinforced leather overlays, leather uppers, added perforations to the vamp for breath-ability and extra court grip thanks to the grippy outsole.
Both the Rivalry and the Conductor shared the same sole unit, which was designed to bring some of the textures of our running shoes to basketball. The look of the midsole, which we gave a two color profile was inspired by the ZX 800. It brought a new look to a basketball shoe but made me pretty unpopular with the guys who made the mold, as it was a nightmare to produce! The single ghillie eye stay on the low-top also brought an influence from the ZX 800, allowing you to strengthen the lacing and fine tune the heel fit. The design of the outsole was what I call a "mosaic," made up of lots of small concave irregular pieces.
Jacques Chassaing-Soul to Sole
The first adidas Rivalry colourway to see the light of day was dedicated to Patrick Ewing’s team the New York Knicks (or Knickerbockers as is their full name) colours of white, orange and blue. The OG Ewing/Rivalry was also launched in two further colourways: White/Natural and White/Red Pinstripe. The shoes featured a durable full-grain leather upper paired with a one-piece cushioning EVA midsole. Thanks to this, the structure was light and flexible. The non-marking cupsole outsole provided glue-like grip on the court. What's more, Rivalry from the beginning of the production years were created in France, so their quality was at the highest possible level.
The Rivarly's many colorways and team stripes edition made room for more individual choices, and their price was not nearly as steep as the Conductor's, which was the most expensive shoe on the market at the time US $ 170 compared to the Rivalry with US $ 115. Although Patrick Ewing sported the Conductor in almost every adidas print ad, the Rivalry were worn more on the streets also due to some simple practical reasons like being much faster to slip into and lace up. It's popularity was fuelled by the American culture we witnessed in the media during the '80s. By the 90s, Europe had responded to the model and embedded it into their own culture.
Julia Schoierer- aka ‘Sneaker Queen’ -Soul to Sole
Reissues
Over the years, adidas Rivalry has had many interesting versions and limited colours. The most acclaimed among collectors is the New York Knicks version of the OG Hi that was released in 2019.
The Swarovski x adidas Rivalry Lo in the colorway 'Cloud White/Blue/Orange' was released on September 24, 2020. The sneaker featured the well-known Knicks colorway and came with Swarovski crystals on the tongue, heel, and mid-panel.
As part of the limited line of adidas Consortium in 2012, a special pack of two colours of adidas Rivalry Low was launched. It commemorated the aforementioned rivalry between the two teams, the "New York Knicks" and the "Chicago Bulls".
In 2020 this basketball classic was also been appreciated by the lifestyle brand Human Made founded by Nigo (of Bape fame). As part of a joint project with adidas Originals, three colourful versions of the adidas Rivalry Low were created with a distinctive heart logo and ‘Gears for Futuristic Teens’ stamped down the stripes.
Two colourways also accompanied the launch of a retro version in December 2022-echoing the 1986 OG colourways of White/Natural and White/Red Pinstripe.
The adidas Rivalry represented a perfect point in the middle of a maelstrom of promotion and performance. The Rivalry was a shoe that captured a moment in time but it’s also the shoe that represented b-boy 2.0 and a new kid of attitude-despite its original status on the shelf. Looking back to adidas icons like the Americana, Top Ten and Forum but constantly shifting forward, 1986’s brand offering contained a few secret weapons, bringing that intimidating design DNA into a new realm.
‘Kerso’ Graham Kerr-A Tribute.
It was with a very heavy heart that The Dassler heard of the sudden passing of Graham Kerr-Kerso to his many friends. An absolute hero to many of us in the scene (Trainer collectors, casuals or music aficionados).
His trainer and clothes collection is legendary.
Below is Kerso’s adidas Top Ten, which not surprisingly, is an absolute barnstormer. He wrote it last year and for some reason or another it was never published. It’s with massive serendipity that we are able to bring his collection and words to you in this issue.
Before his Top Ten we have a specially written eulogy by his long time pal and co-author (with Kerso) of the seminal book ‘Dressers’, Matt Johnstone.
Kerso.
The name is synonymous with football culture. The tagline which goes with the Dressers book is Football, Fashion & Music, and through all of that I’ve never known someone with such an encyclopaedic knowledge across all of those genres. That world is mourning a huge loss from it’s community, and a man who thought nothing of giving up time to those who wanted to learn from him and his experiences.
I’ve known Kerso for decades, proud to call him a pal, even made him Godfather to my daughter, and it goes without saying his passing will leave a huge void in my life. But his loss will be felt on a much wider scale given the wealth of information he could offer on just about any subject. Of course his collection is legendary, but don’t call him a collector. He hated that. He bought things to wear and he wore them. He rotated regularly, not for him storing stuff away cos it was rare or sought after. Out it comes and on it goes, so that whoever he came across could marvel at the variety at his disposal.
Trainers are what’s most noted I would suggest, his love of the Three Stripes the stuff of legend but he didn’t differentiate between iconic shoes of a different brand. He collaborated with Puma just as easy to celebrate their part in the history of match going footwear, and celebrated Diadora’s part in the legacy of stylish trabs as much as he did with the iconic Trefoil. The bulk of his trainer collection may have been adidas but his overall contribution to the culture transcends individual brands.
Same with the clobber. He was quoted in one article as saying “It’s not about the label, it’s about the look” and that is so true. You could have a thousand pound jacket but look like a sack of tatties, and when you check back on pictures of him you’ll perhaps see some unknown (at the time) labels or unbranded items which looked a million dollars. It’s no wonder so many looked up to him as a kind of style icon.
His musical tastes began with Mod Revival, through to Northern and Modern Soul and then the House scene blew the roof off in his mind. A massive techno fan and DJ who again, knew everything there is to know about his personal choice. Brilliant dancer, always seen with a smile on his face and always ready to share his passion with anyone who would listen. There’s no doubt he’ll be sorely missed by a huge chunk of our worlds.
Matt Johnstone aka Daft Laddie-September 2024
My adidas 'Top 10' Graham ‘Kerso’ Kerr (@kerso_graham_kerr on IG).
Around the World in adi Days
When The Dassler's request for a Top Ten article arrived my initial pleasure at being asked was gradually replaced by a slight sense of dread. Not because I didn't want to do it, more the recollection of the previous times I've done it over the years. No sooner have I finished and submitted the article than I've wanted it back because I've changed my mind about what should go in!
Thankfully the nice people at The Dassler included a caveat in the request by saying that it could be any Top Ten of my choosing and not restricted to my (ever changing) all-time favourite adidas trainers.
After a bit of thought and a search through many boxes I decided it would be fun to do an "adidas world tour" Top Ten. As it turned out however it proved to be just as difficult, if not more so, than a list of favourites. For a start I had to choose ten destinations - more difficult than you might imagine given the number of locations adidas have manufactured in over the years. Having decided on a location I then had to choose a single model which had been produced in that country. I'm happy with my choices though. There was no set criteria other than the model being first generation (the exceptions being the Tobacco & Gazelle which have never really stopped being in production and could have been attributed to multiple countries over the years). I've not gone for the rarest, most popular or sought after shoes, just the ones which stood out most to me. I've also cheated a little in choosing two models from France - I couldn't separate the two and to all intents and purposes they're the same shoe just a different colour..... So after much deliberation, chopping and changing I've settled on the following (in no particular order) :
1. Made in West Germany - New York (1984)
2. Made in Austria - TRX 10 (1987)
3. Made in Japan - RN 6100 (1985)
4. Made in Korea - Tulsa (1988)
5. Made in Taiwan - De Castella Centaur (1986)
6. Made in Canada - Tobacco (1985)
7. Made in Yugoslavia - Berlin (1985)
8. Made in France - Chamois/Rubis (1970's)
9. Made in Spain - ZX 380 (1986)
10.Made in China - Gazelle (1991, 1994, 1999)
So there we have it - just a little snapshot of the wide and varied places of adidas' production worldwide in years gone past. The list of countries who didn't make the list is huge and includes the likes of Romania, Slovenia, Italy, Indonesia, Hungary, Philippines and Vietnam to name a few. Maybe next time the list could be of the most unusual places of production - Russia, Mexico, South Africa and Iran for example......!
Kerso
2023
What we hadn’t counted on though was the fact that because the photographer was going off to do a calendar in Thailand the only suitable date and time for the shoot (at my house) was early on a Saturday morning, immediately following a DJ gig I was playing at the Sub Club in Glasgow on the Friday night.
I arrived home around 6AM on the Saturday morning and then had to transport two hundred single trainers from my loft to the living room and arrange them in time for Mackie (the photographer) arriving at 8AM.
Having also been up most of the Thursday night sorting records for the gig I’m surprised he managed to find a single photo where I don’t look extremely the worse for wear.
(the photo is a bit misleading as it’s one of the few times over the last ten or so years where I’ve had short hair)
Kerso talking about the above photo featured in the book ‘Trainers’ by Neil Heard.
If you would like to contribute your adidas Top Ten (we’d love some more apparel versions please) then please get in touch-we’d be happy to showcase your choices. Please email Woody on adidascollectorsclub@gmail.com.
Many have noticed a big increase in region-specific exclusives from The Brand With Three Stripes over the last couple of years. I just wanted to highlight some of the best that were seen in certain places, while some went under the radar, others have been widely recognised and sought after. I am not going to start too far back or I could be here all year, but at the end of 2021, the start of 2022, it seemed that retailer exclusives being super limited was the way to go. While boutiques in Europe have grown exponentially and therefore have customer bases stretching across the globe, such as END. or SNS, there are so many others that partner with adidas to provide for just local clientele. So while the END. 1/500 Made In Germany Paris and Berlin were super limited and retailer exclusive, they are not considered region exclusive in a sense, due to them being available to people everywhere.
First up, a shoe from the end of 2021, a production run of just 150 pairs were made of the adidas x Deadstock ZX 5000 ‘Coffee Beans’. Super limited, retailer exclusive, they were only available at the Deadstock store in Portland, with a tiny amount online that sold out within a minute. They went under the radar for many, and with such a huge ZX following in Europe, the prices on this shoe can be astronomical for true collectors.
Next up, another retailer exclusive, again limited to just 150 pairs being made, the adidas x apt.4b Forum 84 Low. Launched in 2022, they did go under the radar with some sizes being available online for weeks after release. The small boutique in Los Angeles incorporated retro details that hadn't been seen in many years, such as the swing-tag. A nice shade of green with a corduroy finish, the West Coast of the States got lucky.
Throughout 2023 the switch-up in direction became clear, no longer were pairs being retailer exclusives, often they would instead be partnerships with artists or musicians, and while being region exclusive, could be found at many retailers local to that area. China in particular got some lovely exclusive pairs, including a three-pack of Bermuda.
There was also the FeFe Ruan collection, a collab with the Chinese artist on the Samba, Superstar and Country OG. Just a decade ago, pairs like these were nearly non-existent. There was nobody talking about them, and no way to source them, the internet and the apps, websites, and services that are available now were still flourishing. Today, it can be more costly but they can be found and purchased, shipped globally through ways and means that the World Wide Web provides. Uncle Google is your friend.
This brings us to 2024, and the Japanese have been spoiled, there is no doubt. Tokyo retailer Billys celebrated its 10th anniversary, and so the two colourways of the retailer exclusive Shibuya had many people around the world using the ways and means to get these shoes shipped over from the Japanese capital. Many fans of Terrace-style footwear declared them shoe of the year, and this was stated back in April. Since then, atmos has also had numerous exclusives but that is one long and successful partnership that has been ongoing for many years. The inlined adidas teams have been launching specific products, and it is the latest pairs that provoked this article. The Tobacco that is launching, the 3-pack, is described as being colour and material exclusive to Japan. The thing is, they are also cheaper. While it was pointed out to me that the Yen is currently weak, it speaks volumes about the relationship that consumers have with brands. Here in the UK, and Europe to an extent, poor quality and workmanship have far too often made their way to shelves. It has sold, or been bought, so the brand has made money, while in Japan, they would instantly be returned because the general consumer is much more demanding.
We have allowed ourselves to be clothed in crap quality, for a more expensive price, while others pay cheaper prices for a far superior product. It is on us, the general consumers here at the end of the day, and while quality does look to be back on the rise, so is the price with GRs, with them appearing to move from £85 to £90 currently and the quality of the shoes at the higher price points of £120 do seem to be consistently decent, but how long does that price point last before it is increased. While inflation is a thing, we all know that you can not put the price up and then provide lesser quality. That is a trend adidas does seem to be bucking, but it has been a rough few years in reality.
Peter Moore-Sneaker Legend (a book review).
Another unmissable Jason Coles book-this time about Peter Moore who managed to become a legend at two rival companies.
If you are a regular reader of the Dassler you’ll know about our love of Jason Coles book about the brilliant adidas designer Jacques Chassaing-Soul to Sole.
Jason’s new book is about Peter Moore, who co-incidentally helped Jason design the Soul to Sole book and obviously worked with Jacques when he was at adidas.
It’s Called Peter Moore-Sneaker Legend with a rather good bye line that pretty much sums up what the book is about and how much influence Peter Moore had on two massive sports companies; The Story of the Creative Visionary Who Revolutionized Nike and Unleashed the Best of Adidas.
When I first asked Peter Moore if I could write a book about his life and career, his response was, "Why would anyone read a book about a one-hit wonder like me?" typical Peter….
Jason Coles-Peter Moore Sneaker Legend-2024
Firstly, it’s a tremendous book, obviously extremely well researched and written by Jason. You can really hear, the late, Peter Moore’s voice as you read about his many exploits, creative decisions and design choices throughout his stella career.
Told through interviews with Jason himself and others (also Moore’s family) with contributions from the great and good of the sportswear designer world. Beautifully paired with some excellent photos, product posters and illustrations, perfectly encapsulating Moore’s work throughout his life.
Sneaker Legend follows Moore’s career in chronological order showcasing his time with the ‘Oregon lot’, where he famously designed the Michael Jordan and John McEnroe logos, amongst many other achievements.
Obviously it’s the later years when Peter Moore worked with adidas from 1989 onwards with Rob Strasser, that we are mostly interested in. Jason doesn’t fail to deliver on Peter’s genius adidas stint.
It’s from this period that we take what we think is the single greatest Peter Moore quote-this is from a guy who had been conditioned to hate the three stripes and it was just after his first visit to the Herzo HQ.
By the end of the tour, I’m crying. It had dawned on me that this company was the life’s work of one man, Adi Dassler. All the ideas that I thought Nike had invented, this guy did , before Phil Knight was even out of diapers!
Peter Moore-Sneaker Legend
It was this realisation that led to Moore and Strasser to place their old grudges aside and work with adidas.
Although they weren’t exactly welcomed with open arms as Jacques Chassaing elaborates in the book-
When Rene Jaggi brought Peter Moore and Rob Strasser to adidas in the early '90s, many of us that thought he was crazy. As the architects of Nike’s success, they had also been the architects of our failure. They were the last people we thought could be our saviors.
It didn’t take Moore and Strasser long to prove their doubters wrong and arguably save the brand that they had been plotting against for most of their careers.
It is fascinating to read about the strategies that enabled the transformation of the failing (at the time) sportswear giant in Peter Moore’s words. To see how much his involvement and influence still permeates and how without it maybe adidas would not exist in the way it does today.
It was time to cut out all the crap, all the fashiony stuff, the confused sports lifestyle ranges, the weird colognes, and go back to doing what built the brand in the first place.
Peter Moore Sneaker Legend
Moore had his finger’s in many adidas pies and Jason manages to weave these stories into a brilliant narrative. Including Moore establishing adidas USA HQ, developing several basketball players signature shoes (including Tracy McGrady, Dikembe Mutombo and of course the much missed Kobe Bryant), helping create the highly sought after US Soccer team’s infamous denim and Stars football shirts, utilising the ‘Feet You Wear’ technology and also the much vaunted adidas Equipment range.
Below is Peter Moore describing how he designed the Equipment logo.
“I was trying to come up with something and nothing was quite working, but then I was looking at a left side tennis shoe on the lateral side... And I thought, “oh, that could work.’”
Peter Moore- Sneaker Legend
Reading the book it is very telling that Peter Moore’s greatest achivement, while working for adidas, is identifying the brand’s much admired back catalogue. Not just using Adi Dassler’s previous work as an inspiration but as an essential signpost for the future direction of the company.
What does comes across in Sneaker Legend is Peter Moore’s passion for preserving Adi Dassler’s heritage at all costs and for championing the establishment of the adidas Archive.
One of the biggest compliments about Jason Coles’ book that I can give, is that there were plenty of interesting and fascinating aspects of Peter Moore’s career that I just wasn’t aware of-and that was just in his adidas stint!
I cannot possibly detail every aspect of Peter Moore’s career in this review but Jason Coles has done an absolutely barn-storming job of doing just that in Sneaker Legend. It’s an absolute must buy.
‘Peter Moore-Sneaker Legend’, written by Jason Coles and published by Rizolli, is available now at all good book shops and your obvious online retailers.
Hugely recommended and on a par, if not better, than Jason’s Jacques Chassaing book-seriously!
What you waiting for-go buy it!
“You know, almost everything I’ve been involved with—the Nike posters, Jordan, air, equipment, turning adidas around—it didn’t come through research centers, data analysis, or any other bullshit. It was all done by the gut feeling of what’s the right thing for the kid in the street. Those sneaker collections people build up, filled with history collecting dust, well, I wasn’t trying to make history. I was trying to make the future.”
Peter Moore-Sneaker Legend 2024
Craig (@adifamily_) reviews adidas new releases for September 2024.
It's been a busy month, with lots dropping at the start of the season on the 1st of September, here's the best of what's just landed on shelves, and what's yet to be seen
Having previously collaborated multiple times, this new Kseniaschnaider x adidas ‘Denim’ collection continues to cement the partnership between the two. Having been founded in 2011 by married couple Ksenia and Anton Schnaider, the Kyiv-based fashionistas have had several products go viral. Rooted in sustainability through necessity, the couple would trawl flea markets and thrift stores for materials, denim in particular, and all their most classic items came from upcycling. The Demi-Denims that brought worldwide acclaim to the brand and that were worn by Bella Hadid were sourced from hunting through second-hand stores, like the infamous Lesnoy bazaar in Kyiv. By 2019, it was estimated they were upcycling over five tonnes of textiles and denim every year, and it has been this kind of commitment that has led to their growth and an avid fanbase that loves the ‘meme’ style offerings that come forth. When working with adidas before, collections have featured apparel and footwear, notably the Samba 2.0 in 2023.
For this Kseniaschnaider × adidas collection, two silhouettes get the signature denim makeover, the Gazelle Bold (W) and the SL72 (W). Since first appearing, the Gazelle Bold has garnered attention due to its platform-style triple-sole system. Seen here with an upper of light blue denim, overlays of suede to the toe box, and lace that match perfectly. Dark denim appears at the heel, which also carries co-branding. A cloud white dimpled tongue is adorned with a lilac decal, with the color block continuing to the soles which feature three different tones of purple. Dark denim stripes to the sides and Gazelle lettering running parallel complete the look.
The Kseniaschnaider × adidas ‘Denim’ SL72 utilizes an underlay base of light blue denim, with dark denim overlays to the toe area, and medial and lateral panels. A preloved crimson toeguard extends to the midsole, with flashes of the color also seen at the suede heel. The heel features a big blue adidas tab in an unusual and intentional design choice, denoting a Trefoil logo. The Three Stripes to the side are finished in dark denim, with the lettering applied to the rearmost stripe itself. A light blue dimpled tongue carries a crimson decal.
Celebrating a half-century in business, sneaker supply chain Foot Locker is teams up with adidas to present a two-shoe collection featuring a Superstar and a Samba OG. Founded on the 12th of September, 1974, by the Kinney Shoe Corporation, the first store was located in City Of Industry, California within the Puente Hills Mall. Foot Locker enjoyed enormous growth and was within 20 years accounting for 70% of sales for Kinney Shoe Corp, with the entire subsidiary being renamed Foot Locker in 2001 after all Kinney stores were closed a few years prior. An ever-present for multiple generations of sneakerheads, the stores are now located globally, from Los Angeles to London to Tokyo and everywhere in between including Fairbanks, Alaska, employing thousands of people, many of which wear the iconic uniforms of black and white stripes that are recognized the world over.
It is with those famous uniforms in mind that the design of the sneakers is approached. The Foot Locker x adidas Superstar has an upper of premium Core Black suede contrasted by Off White leather stripes to the side and back heel, with the prominent shell-toe covering made from rubber. More Off White leather lines the underside of the tongue and inner sock liner. Gold Trefoil branding appears on the back heel and tongue, also with the Superstar moniker running parallel to the stripes, with it all being placed on a rubber sole unit.
With no co-branding being apparent on either shoe except the insoles that carry a specially designed ‘50’ graphic that also highlights the uniform, the Foot Locker x adidas Samba OG has an upper entirely consisting of premium Core Black suede, save for the flash of Off White leather to the heel and the Three Stripes along the side. Again, simple gold Trefoil branding appears on the tongue, also with the Samba name alongside the stripes. Sat upon a gum-colored rubber sole unit, the aesthetic of both pairs is clear. Simple and smart, a subtle celebration for such a huge anniversary.
Variety is the spice of life, so they say, and this is evidenced here with the new Samba OG ‘Tweed’ collection. After such an illustrious history, the Samba gained viral attention last year, being crowned the Shoe Of The Year for 2023 and achieving peak levels of popularity only afforded to the most sought-after products. In some places around the world, like the UK, this surprised both the general public and the diehard sneakerhead alike. The Samba has been freely available on shelves there, often at heavily discounted prices, for years. Decades even, they are an ever-constant. The revival and resurgence of the silhouette has been something to behold, and with it taking place on such a global scale, it will be studied for generations to come by students of both fashion and business. For The Brand With Three Stripes, it wasn't expected that so much of the lost Yeezy revenue would be immediately replaced, by a shoe that, in this form, they had been selling since 1972. And even after all that time, and the plethora of iterations we have been inundated with since, there are still finding new ways to mix it up and give the shoe a fresh look.
Both pairs feature uppers constructed from the famous Harris Tweed of Scotland that has been sourced by the inline team at HQ in Herzogenaurach, with nubuck overlays being used for the lace stay and toe guard. The herringbone pattern of the tweed presents different tones, but one pair is daubed in hues of Wonder Beige, subtly contrasted by Shadow Brown stripes and heel, featuring a wonder white decal upon the tongue. They sit atop a dark gum sole.
The accompanying pair in the pack sees an upper adorned in Dark Brown tweed, again the herringbone pattern is visible with multiple colors intertwined. The Three Stripes to the side and the heel tab are applied using Cloud White leather. A gum-coloured tongue decal is visible, with the shoe finished by a lighter gum-coloured sole.
Ever constant and one of the most successful sneakers of all time, the Stan Smith is the star of an upcoming four shoe collection designed in collaboration with Los Angeles-based brand, Brain Dead. After receiving a warm reception to his first start-up, Farmtactics, designer Kyle Ng was aware of the demand for graphic tees back in 2014, but the stockists hated them. Retailers refused to sell them, while people like Kyle knew the public would buy and wear them, the demand was real. This gave rise to Brain Dead, a collective of creative minds that has a unique and disruptive approach to culture. Inviting many fashionistas, independent designers, and artists to inject their own flavorful styles and tastes into products, the logo of Brain Dad has been represented by various forms and interpretations across a wide spectrum of products. The open-minded approach has worked spectacularly for the brand, they now boast an impressive resume of collaborators, including Oakley, Jeff Goldblum, Carhartt, and the Red Hot Chilli Peppers. At the beginning of 2024, it was announced that a partnership with adidas would be underway with the introduction of a bowling shoe. Since their launch, there has been a variety of super-limited Stan Smiths, including a pair sold only in London while the major tennis tournament Wimbledon was taking place. Now, the wider audience has three pairs to choose from.
All four are arriving together and constructed the same, with signature touches being evident all across the shoe. Coming in hues of Vapor Pink, Shadow Green, Clear Brown and Light Blue, all four pairs sit upon dark rubber outsoles. Soft leather envelopes the upper, with fuzzy suede appearing at the heels. The Brain Dead logo appears using perforations to the medial area, and also upon a custom ‘adidas Endorsed By’ tongue decal, while the traditional Trefoil Stan Smith logos are present on the back heels. There is a line of jagged stitching along the heel tabs, another signature Brain Dead infusion, and the laces are bobbled and distressed to give that unique and disruptive look.
The TOKYO ENERGY series from adidas keeps highlighting the essence of Tokyo culture and again partners with Hikari Shibata to launch a Gazelle Indoor. The highly renowned photographer is also known to have successfully turned her hand to being a designer, model, and DJ, gaining an impressive fanbase who look forward to her projects religiously. Such is her status as part of Japan's darling elite, the artist has a following of nearly 300k on the social media app Instagram and is featured regularly by celebrity gossip forums in the Japanese capital.
Launched by tye brand a couple of years back, the TOKYO ENERGY series has starred some impressive collaborations so far, including previous offerings from Hikari herself, who launched a pack with two previous Gazelle Indoors in June 2023, and a five-shoe collection at the end of last year. This upcoming pair is highly anticipated and keeps the resurgent streak of the Gazelle Indoor going. The model has enjoyed massive success after collaborators such as Sean Wotherspoon and Ronnie Fieg chose to work with the silhouette.
Being presented here with an upper primarily consisting of a Core White crinkle nylon canvas, premium Cream White suede overlays appear for the heel tab, lace stay, and toe guard. Night Grey contrasts with the Three Stripes on the side, which each feature double embroidered patterns. Gazelle in gold foil runs parallel to the rearmost stripe, while more embroidery is utilized on the back heel to denote the Trefoil logos. A woven tag appears upon the tongue, with a gum-colored rubber sole unit finishing the aesthetic.
A cult classic is set to return, with a slight name change, as the Radlander EQT is seen. The Equipment (EQT) arm of The Brand With Three Stripes was the brainchild of legendary sneaker figures Peter Moore and Rob Strasser, launching in 1991 to wide acclaim. Repackaging the performance-based designs and looking to reinvigorate a flagging branch of the brand, boundaries were pushed immediately, and multiple variations of futuristic-looking footwear began appearing. Design after design looked to purposely suit one activity or another, with every detail and aspect of the impact that footwear has on physical performance being reviewed and analyzed. This led to numerous advances in technology that were implemented into footwear, and indeed, they still are.
A dream was had, to create the ultimate outdoor shoe that could traverse any terrain and look amazingly unique in doing so. In 1997, the Badlander EQT was launched, featuring the Feet You Wear technology that adidas had licensed from Frampton Ellis the year before. At the time, the design was considered extremely different from the norm. While being sold globally and finding moderate success, it was in Japan the model truly resonated and became more than just another shoe. Instead of hiking up a mountain, the shoe was worn as streetwear, and the silhouette became an overnight sensation on the streets of Tokyo. There has long been a crowd calling for a reissue.
The problem with reproducing this shoe, now named Radlander EQT, lay in the complex construction and sole molds. Nearly 30 years have passed, the toolings and molds for the originals had long been lost or discarded, and the adidas Archive at Herzogenaurach unfortunately didn't have a pair of the shoes stashed away they could work off, they have 2 pairs but they needed to be kept pristine for Archive purposes. Luckily, an adidas employee located an OG pair from an online selling site, which was then scanned to recreate the molds. Then, the pair went to sneaker heaven as it was comprehensibly butchered, surgically taken apart piece by piece so all the correct specifications could be recorded and worked from. A necessary evil.
With perfect timing as the seasons change and maintaining as close to a 1:1 reissue as possible, the adidas Radlander EQT features an entire upper constructed of premium nubuck, tanned to a shade listed as Cardboard. The upper is lined with a lovingly recrafted waterproof membrane called adiDRY that has not been used in production for many years. The unique Core Black rubber FYW sole is visible by jaggedly appearing from underneath and featuring Feet You Wear Freddy to the side while continuing to wrap around to the front as a toeguard and encasing the Torsion system that resides within. The cushioned orange tongue and the lacing system are hidden by a nubuck panel with a blue embroidered border, held in place by three elastic straps that hook onto metal eyelets placed on the opposing side, giving the shoe a uniform appearance. EQT branding is debossed into the medial panel, with a woven tongue tag adorned with the EQT logo. An adiDRY tag is attached at the toe and Torsion branding appears underfoot.
Having such an incredibly vast back catalogue is a massive benefit to adidas, with Basketball being an area in which they have a rich history. Delving into the past and being reissued for the first time sinxe 2005, the adidas Epi Pro has arrived in both Hi and Low form. A signature sneaker of EuroHoops legend Juan Antonio San Epifanio, who is known as Epi by his adoring fanbase, he spent his entire professional career with FC Barcelona and is considered royalty to the Spanish fans. There is a famous video that often goes viral on social media, showing the lighting of the Olympic torch at the 1992 Games in Barcelona, and it is Epi who carries the torch and holds it out for the archer to light his arrow. Such was his beloved status in his home nation, adidas produced multiple signature Epi models exclusively in Spain, just for the Spanish market during the late 80s and early 90s. This has led to the shoe being relatively unknown by sneakerheads today, but with a familiar and recognizable look, they line up nicely with the rest of the retro offerings currently offered by the basketball branch of The Brand With Three Stripes.
Both launching in OG colorways, the Epi Pro reissue has been made possible by collector and historian Ernie Beckmann (@erniepunk on Instagram). He kindly lent the adidas basketball team in Los Angeles three pairs of original issues, allowing them to produce as close to 1:1 as possible. The Hi iteration arrives with an upper constructed of layers of Core White leather, contrasted by Semi Pulse Lilac hues for the Three Stripes and ankle wrapping. The lacestay is separated into sections, with the Core Black medial panel overlapping and featuring Trefoil branding. The Epi Pro Low arrives with a base upper of Core White leather, with vivid hues of Preloved Blue and College Red utilized for the stripes and detailing. Again the lace stay features the wider lace stay section that features Trefoil branding. Both sneakers have adidas branding around the heel, woven tongue tags that boast Trefoil and Epi Pro denotations, and have Rivalry sole units underfoot.
The brand yet again teams up with long-time collaborative partners, Japanese streetwear brand atmos, to present the Jabbar Low. There has been an incredible string of successful collaborations between the two, with the latest G-SNK model released just weeks ago. Other hook-ups include the Tricolor NMD-R1, an adiMatic pack, and the Graffiti collection, which featured both the adidas ZX 8000 and the Forum 84 Low, all sought-after around the globe. After the devastating revelation that atmos would be closing their USA operation down, it will only get harder for sneakerheads to cop the heat that they will undoubtedly release. With some small independent stores across the globe holding events last month, the news was revealed that the adidas Jabbar would be reissued, a true piece of history in the annals of The Brand With Three Stripes. The first NBA player that adidas ever signed, the Jabbar shoe was first launched in 1972, and after being met with unprecedented demand, more colorways and material mixes started appearing. The inspiration for this collaboration can be found in one of these vintage iterations.
Enveloped in familiar blue hues, the premium fluffy suede upper of the atmos x adidas Jabbar Low is both vibrant and recognizable. The famous signature blue, a hue used by both brands, invokes the retro essence this pair holds, with the contrasting Off White heels, tongue, and Three Stripes blending seamlessly with the yellowed sole unit that completes the vintage-inspired aesthetic. A smooth strip of nubuck appears around the toe, for improved durability. The tongue features a custom Kareem Abdul-Jabbar logo bearing the famous Endorsed By tagline and his signature. White leather lines the inner, accompanied by a tag that highlights a Japanese flag, while also denoting this pair was Designed In Tokyo.
With a clear and seismic shift away from its roots, the adidas Spezial line is announcing its arrival in the soccer market with a new concept, Spezial F.C., a project that will see adidas Spezial link up with football clubs who are partnered with the German sportswear giants. The first Spezial F.C. collection is set to be drab and non-generic, utilizing the Copa Mundial and Mundial Team in classic tones that declare no club allegiances, setting the adidas Spezial range to venture into new territory.
The previous adidas Spezial collections have been rooted in music and rave culture in the early 90s and heavily influenced by the experiences of curator Gary Aspden growing up in Northern England. He has previously insisted that he did not want Spezial to be "pigeonholed" and had purposely avoided the "low-hanging fruit of brand collaborations." The sudden shift with a soccer-dedicated collection and a promise of more to come that will evolve into club specific merchandise is a first in the decade-long history of adidas Spezial.
There has always been a demand for adidas Spezial to release some non-allegient soccer products, and going back to the very early years of Spezial, Gary Aspden has long expressed a desire to produce an SPZL soccer cleat. The adidas Copa Mundial Spezial F.C. are constructed from premium leathers that were crafted in the Scheinfeld factory in Germany. Finished in the classic color palette of black and white, trimmed by red accents, the Mod Trefoil logo appears upon the foldover tongue, with text declaring Made In Germany. Gold foil denotes Copa SPZL branding running parallel to the stripes, while underfoot, a gum-colored midsole is combined with red firm ground footings.
Joined by the adidas Mundial Team Spezial F.C., again crafted from premium black and white leathers, with a toe guard of sleek suede, more red accents appear at the heel and upper eyelets. A long, ribbed tongue that carries the Mod Trefoil branding is in place, with the text Made For Spezial underneath. A gum-coloured midsole is seen, sitting atop a black indoor sports sole.
Set to arrive next year as part of the brand's SS25 collection, the adidas Tokyo (W) will be launched in five different color schemes, with various materials used. In recent years, the influence of Japanese trends has been clear across the spectrum, but none more so than The Brand With Three Stripes. Massively successful collaborations with Japanese streetwear brand atmos, Tokyo-based artist Hikari Shibata, and projects like the Tokyo Energy Series have led to massive growth in the region. Combined with seeing pairs like the adidas Radlander EQT reissued, the demand is clear, and the brand looks to supply it in abundance.
Key Japanese fashion trends, such as gorpcore, athleisure, and tech wear, emphasize comfort, durability, and cutting-edge materials, making them highly attractive to active lifestyles. Incorporating traditional Japanese elements like clean lines and muted color palettes into sportswear design has created a fusion of style and practicality. As a result, Japanese-inspired sportswear continues to grow in popularity, especially among those seeking performance-oriented yet stylish athletic apparel, and brands like adidas look to capitalize on this.
From the five pairs of adidas Tokyo (W) being launched, two are presented with soft suede uppers with leather stripes, tongues, heel support, and lining. One of these pairs is adorned in signature adidas Blue Bird with contrasts of white for the Three Stripes, tongue, and heel. The other suede iteration is seen with a primarily off white base, that has black stripes, the heel supports, and upon the pure white tongue is a black tongue tag.
The other pairs in the pack arrive with an upper base that utilizes off white canvas for all three, as well as classic color blocking with better scarlet, collegiate green, and royal blue hues contrasting on each pair respectively, with leather stripes, lining, and tongues. The lace stays and the toe area are finished in nubuck. Under foot on all five pairs is a textured flat-bottomed gum robber sole.
In the last 18 months, the diversity with which that adidas has demonstrated with region-specific releases has been clearer than ever and continues to shine with the unveiling of three adidas Tobacco that will be exclusive to Japan, adidas have confirmed to me. The model itself has been part of the adidas catalog since 1970, over 50 years of being an ever-constant available in a multitude of finishes and colors. In the early 70s, adidas was by far the biggest sportswear brand on the planet, and by 1973, there were 26 NFL teams, and 20 of them wore Three Stripes. With such success, exploration into other markets was the next step, and the adidas factory in Dettwiller, Alsace, France was under the direct control of Adi Dassler's son, Horst. It can not be understated just how huge a part Horst played in the success of adidas as a company, while Adi undoubtedly designed some of the greatest pairs of footwear ever made, it was Horst who knew how to branch out, market them and make adidas into the behemoth it is today. In 1970 he started a range that adidas called 'Special Leisure' that used specific color palettes and styles to have a training shoe represent a more formal tone. One of the first shoes of this range was the adidas Tobacco, and it has been a perennial best-seller ever since much beloved across the globe. The Tobacco name came about because of the original colorway, which is a muted brown that somebody in the factory likened to dried Tobacco leaves, and to this day the OG 'baccies' palette is sought after whenever reissued.
In Japan especially, the adidas Tobacco resonates with the stylish and trendy, and the new collection that is marketed specifically for the region is sure to be met with high demand. All three pairs are constructed of premium suede, and only minimal branding is seen with a retro decal atop the tongues. The first pair unveiled arrives in a triple Night Indigo finish, with even the rubber sole unit carrying through the one-color block aesthetic. This is highly reminiscent of another sought-after adidas Tobacco that was Japanese exclusive, a collaboration with United Arrows.
The second pair is seen adorned in hues of wonder orchid and silver green, a colorful yet slightly muted look that only enhances the sleek suede and the profile of the low-cut silhouette, giving a modern update to a vintage classic. A dark gum-colored rubber sole is underfoot.
Last but by no means least, the third and final adidas Tobacco in the pack features an upper primarily comprising of off white premium suede, that provides the perfect canvas for the contrast of the collegiate green stripes and heel tab. A white rubber sole is used to finish the clean vibe.
Leaving the last word to Kerso….
Lastly, do you have anything you’d like to pass onto younger Dressers out there?
Yeah. Ignore any advice given to you by people like me and do your own thing.
Graham ’Kerso’ Kerr
Taken from an Interview with Dylan Cromwell about the Dressers book
You won’t be surprised to learn that we think The Dassler 31 has been another standout edition and we very much hope you have enjoyed reading our three stripe homage.
Honestly we are made up that you’ve read it-Thank You, as it’s the culmination of a lot of hard work, knowledge and research.
As always if there’s anything you want us to feature or if you have any comments or suggestions please get in touch in the comments section.
If you do love our work please share your thoughts with us on socials, recommend us to your adidas-loving friends (who we’re sure you have many)and see you all on Saturday October 19th for the next issue- number 32!
Keep wearing 3 stripes.
Woody & Craig-TD 👟///
Huge thanks for the fantastic review of the book fellas!